The Unexpected Rise of Pinot Noir in the Buckeye State

Nestled in the heart of America's heartland, Ohio might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of Pinot Noir. Yet this versatile grape has found a surprising foothold in the Buckeye State, carving out a niche for itself with a compelling story.

Unlike Oregon's Pinot Noir journey, which began with a targeted vision, Ohio's story is more one of happy accidents and experimentation. Winemaking in Ohio has a long history dating back to the early 19th century, but it primarily focused on hardier grapes like Concord and Catawba. However, in the latter half of the 20th century, a new generation of winemakers emerged, eager to explore the potential of cool-climate grapes like Pinot Noir.

The key to Ohio's Pinot Noir success lies in its unique geography. The state straddles several climate zones, with the northern regions bordering on the cooler Great Lakes climate. This provides the cool temperatures and moderate rainfall that Pinot Noir thrives on. Additionally, the rise of sophisticated viticulture techniques like canopy management and proper site selection has allowed growers to optimize grape quality.

While Ohio Pinot Noir might not be as widely known as its counterparts from California or Oregon, it's slowly gaining recognition for its distinct character. Ohio Pinots tend to be lighter-bodied and more fruit-forward compared to their West Coast cousins. They often showcase vibrant flavors of red cherry, cranberry, and raspberry, complemented by earthy notes and a refreshing acidity. This lighter style makes them incredibly food-friendly, pairing well with a variety of dishes.

The future of Ohio Pinot Noir is bright. As wineries continue to refine their techniques and experiment with different clones and growing practices, we can expect to see even more exciting expressions emerge. So, next time you're looking for a delicious and unexpected Pinot Noir, consider giving an Ohio bottle a try. You might be surprised by the hidden gem waiting to be discovered.

Looking for a good affordable example? Try this one!

2021 Debonné Vineyards
Pinot Noir
Grand River Valley, Ohio

Debonné Vineyards began in 1916 when Anton Debevc, a Slovenian immigrant, purchased a fruit farm in Madison, Ohio. Over three generations, the Debevc family transformed it into Ohio's largest estate winery, renowned for its world-class standards. Today Debonné continues to garner acclaim, with their premium wines consistently winning awards across the country.

This is a bright, fresh style of Pinot. It offers aromas of black cherry, blackberry, plum, and dark chocolate, with vibrant acidity and velvety smooth tannins. Pair this wine with pork, rabbit, lamb, flavorful salmon dishes, and anything with mushrooms.

Chambourcin: the powerhouse grape with a uniquely storied origin

Those of us who love and advocate for the wines of emerging regions across the US know the grape Chambourcin well. Yet in the industry as a whole this fascinating grape is largely ignored, if not unknown. I’ve decided to take a moment to put the charming Chambourcin in the spotlight (though it deserves more for sure).

Chambourcin grapes on the vine

Where did Chambourcin come from?

Chambourcin is a French-American hybrid. It was developed by French viticulturist Joannes Seyve in the Nantes region of France late 1950’s.

Why would Seyve create hybrids of French and American grapes, you may ask? Because of steamships. This may sound odd, but let’s explore this a bit further:

As North America’s European population increased throughout the 1600’s-1800’s, more trade and shipping occurred. “Exotic” plants found in the American Northeast were frequently brought across the Atlantic to find homes in the gardens of those who could afford them. They were curiosities, and therefore were very appealing to those with means. The trip across the sea took quite some time as the only shipping option was sailboat, thus the plants were in effect quarantined during their journey.

The mid-to-late 1800’s saw the rise of the steamship. This brought more human immigration to North America, and more plant emigration to Europe. But now the quarantine effect no longer applied - trips across the sea could be done in a matter of days, not weeks.

Unfortunately for Europe the vines coming from the Northeast had stowaway lice and spores that quickly spread throughout England, France, and then the rest of the world. Soon phylloxera, black rot, powdery mildew, and downy mildew became the norm in vineyard regions around the globe. Combatting these scourges was not easy, and lots of time and money was poured into research into potential solutions.

One way around these issues used the genetics of the American vines to create immunity. Viticulturists like Seyve began experimenting with French-American hybrids that carried tolerance while adopting flavor profiles more akin to what the European palate expected. And thus you have delightful creations like the Chambourcin grape.

The Great French Wine Blight was driven by phylloxera

Why was Chambourcin brought to America?

In the 1970’s, many of the American states in the Northeast and East were finally truly recovering from Prohibition. Though the legalization of alcohol in the US had occurred decades before, many states still had lingering pressure from religious groups and strict state laws that resulted in the floundering of their wine industries for quite some time. The 1970’s saw the creation of various Farm Winery Acts (which allowed producers to sell direct to consumer) as an attempt to boost the industry, and production began to surge.

Producers sought out grapes with more European flavor profiles that could tolerate the cooler climates, pests, and diseases present in these areas; French-American hybrids were obvious choices. Chambourcin made its debut in US vineyards in the 1970’s in the Northeast, spreading west over time.

Galen Glen’s Chambourcin from Lehigh Valley, PA

What kind of wine does Chambourcin make?

Chambourcin is a teinturier. That means the flesh of the grape is a deep ruby, unlike most red grapes which have clear juice inside. Chambourcin wines have dark, rich color and lighter tannin, which make it an ideal blending grape for varieties like Cabernet Franc.

Chambourcin tends to be spicy, with black cherry and plum flavors, and a range of herbal characteristics. It can be a lovely quaffable glou-glou style wine, or a friendly table wine that is easy to pair with a wide range of dishes. Think Zweigelt, Barbera, or not-too-complex Merlot.

Camuna Cellar City Glou Chambourcin from New Jersey

The developing story of American Grüner Veltliner

Are you familiar with Grüner Veltliner? Odds are you had never heard of it (unless you are an avid student of wines of the world) prior to ten or fifteen years ago. It lived in relative obscurity, known well only to those in the Austrian wine regions it calls home: the fertile plains of Weinviertel, the south facing slopes of Kremstal and Kamptal, the steep sun-soaked banks of Wachau. So how did it gain a spotlight in the wine world, and what is it doing growing in places like Pennsylvania, New York, and Michigan?!

Grüner vines at Lenz Moser winery - www.lenzmoser.at

The rise of Grüner Veltliner in Austria

Grüner was, for most of its history, an unremarkable but pleasant wine. But it turns out this was less due to any intrinsically average quality of the grapes, and more due to improper vine training. After World War II a famous Austrian winemaker, Lenz Moser, decided to grow Grüner differently. He trained it up high, with a low planting density of vines 4 feet in height. The grapes developed more intense aromas and flavors and achieved excellent phenolic ripeness - and thus the ephemeral Austrian Grüner Veltliner known and loved by the wine world today was born.

Austria’s Grüners have become legendary, with some aging well beyond two decades. Grüner is the offspring of Savagnin, a grape of truly ancient origin, and St. Georgener-Rebe, a relatively obscure local Austrian grape. It is claimed to date back to ancient Roman times. It’s prized flavors and aromas of lime, grapefruit, stone fruits (when the grapes achieve maximal ripeness), and a distinct white pepper note can be bright and refreshing or dreamily complex. Some styles can benefit from a creamy texture and pastry-like aroma due to aging sur lie.

For decades, sommeliers have adored Austrian Grüner and wineries like Nikolaihof have produced highly sought-after examples. Demand is often much greater than supply of these gems.

Nikolaihof’s Hefeabzug Grüner, one of my favorite Austrian wines - “hefeabzug” means “sur lie”

What brought Grüner to the US from Austria?

A few events that occurred back to back gave Grüner a PR boost here in the US in the early 2000’s. First, in 2002, a blind tasting held in London and hosted by Jancis Robinson MW and Tim Atkin MW pitted Austrian Grüner against many other revered wines, including the great grands crus of Burgundy. The results? Austrian wines in general did quite well, occupying 7 out of ten of the top spots. And first place went to a 1990 Grüner from Austria’s Wachau! Grüner instantly beamed in the spotlight of the wine world, attracting attention from American sommeliers across the nation.

Then, in 2005, Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards became the first US winery to commercially produce Grüner Veltliner in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. Stephen Reustle had encountered Grüner during a motorcycle tour of Austria and was immediately fascinated by the wine. Upon his return to the US and relocation to Umpqua he realized Grüner could be a perfect grape to grow there, and was astounded to find that no one in the US had ever grown this grape commercially.

Stephen planted Grüner in 2003 and made history with the first commercial bottling of a US Grüner. His wine racked up awards, press, and adoring sommelier fans, and in fact just this year his Grüner was awarded Top White Wine in North America at the prestigious San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Stephen was not, however, the only one who planted Grüner in 2003. Across the country in the unassuming Lehigh Valley region of Pennsylvania, Galen Glen Winery also planted Grüner at their family’s 200-year-old farm-turned-vineyard-and-winery. Noting that the climate and soils of the region are similar to certain wine regions of Germany and Austria, The Troxells planted Grüner with great success.

The astounding wines produced by Galen Glen and Reustle-Prayer Rock inspired others to follow suit, and Grüner plantings rose dramatically in the Northeast and Pacific Northwest over the next few decades. From these two pioneering wineries rose a great appreciation of Grüner Veltliner across the country.

What US regions make the best Grüner today?

Grüner now grows all over Oregon, and some fine examples can be found in each appellation. The unique climate and soils of the Northeast, however, seem to offer Grüner a special home. Grüner plantings have expanded throughout Pennsylvania (with the standout being, of course, Galen Glen) and across the border into New Jersey. The Hudson River Region produces some beautiful Grüners as well (think Millbrook Winery). Look a bit farther south and you’ll find beautiful wines coming from Old Westminster in Maryland, especially in blends with a few other varieties (like their Salt, a blend with Chardonnay and Albariño). And watch out Northeast and Northwest, northern Michigan is starting to make some quite nice Grüners too (Shady Lane Cellars makes a fabulous one)!

Now go enjoy some Grüner Veltliner!

How well do you know your American wine history?

Probably not as well as you think.

Here at Northeast Wine Company & Vitis Distribution, we’ve made it our mission to get wines from underappreciated US wine regions into the spotlight. Part of that mission includes lots of education centered around the history of wine production in the US.

If I were to ask you where European vines were first planted in the US, what would you say? Where was the first vine nursery? How about the first commercial vineyard, and the first commercial winery? And when it comes to wines that have won awards in Europe, where (and when) did those first appear?

The US wine industry has a fascinating tale that is much different than most people assume. The origins of the industry date back almost four hundred years. Regions we call “emerging” today are anything but… unfortunately, many are unaware of the long, rich history of areas thought of today as “fringe.”

The reasons behind this lack of awareness are steeped in politics and religion and go way back to the beginnings of this country. Not to mention that American Prohibition and its aftermath completely changed the landscape of the wine industry, drastically affecting consumer perception of where “good wine” should come from.

Read on to find out how well you know your American wine history. The results may surprise you!

Where were European vinifera vines first planted in the US?

Many people will guess California (the missions had vines, right?) or Virginia. But think again - the first vineyards planted with European vines were located in Massachusetts and New Mexico in 1630. This does make sense given the paths of colonists and the Spanish, but what comes as a bit of a surprise is that the missions didn’t plant their vines until 1769 - one hundred and forty years later!

During that century and a half, before vines appeared in California, vineyards sprouted up in many regions that include today’s Michigan (1702) and New York (early 1700’s). The first vine nursery was established in western Long Island, and wine production was happening on a relatively large scale by the time the California missions started making sacramental wines.

Where is the oldest commercial winery in the US?

Again many will say it must be California. And again, they would be wrong. The oldest commercial winery, still in operation, is located in New York’s Hudson River Region. Brotherhood Winery was established in 1839. It weathered Prohibition by producing sacramental wines for the Catholic church; Brotherhood has produced wine every single year since its founding.

You can visit the winery today, and should you find yourself in the Hudson River Valley, you certainly must! Stop by Benmarl Winery to check out the oldest vineyard in the US too.

Where were sparkling wines first made in the US that garnered worldwide acclaim?

If you’re a fan of bubbles, you’ve likely heard of the legendary sparkling wines of California’s Sonoma and Russian River Valley. Schramsberg, Iron Horse, and Domaine Carneros have long received high critic scores and attracted focus to the West Coast. However, this was not always the case.

The place best known for top sparkling wines in the US as far back as the 1860’s was New York’s Finger Lakes. Pleasant Valley Winery’s bubbles regularly outplaced French sparklers in competitions in Europe. The winery also has the honor of being the first bonded winery in the US. Pleasant Valley made it through Prohibition, like many other wineries, by making sacramental wines for the church.

What was the first US wine region to produce red wines that won awards in Europe?

Oh, you’ve got this… Napa, right?!

Not quite. Try New Jersey.

New Jersey’s Egg Harbor City was renowned for its red blends based on the Norton grape pre-Prohibition. In fact, at the Paris Exposition of 1878, Egg Harbor City wines took many of the top prizes. And this wasn’t surprising - New Jersey was known at the time for producing very high quality wine that could command quite a price!

So “emerging wine region” is a bit of a misnomer.

When the wine industry’s center of power shifted to the West post-Prohibition, many areas that had been known for high quality wine production slipped into anonymity in the public mind. But excellent wines are still produced today throughout these regions - you just have to know where to look to find them! Start with our portfolio, which features quite a few of these “emerging regions.” 😉

Northern Michigan has a Wine Style all It’s Own

A unique wine region truly without parallel.

I was recently asked by a member of my team in San Francisco, “So what European wine region would you say is most similar to Northern Michigan?” This question caught me off guard and actually stumped me. I started mentally scanning the regions throughout Europe and the rest of the well-known appellations of the world, but to no avail. Too cool for Austria’s Burgenland, with slopes too gentle for Wachau. Too much water influence for Champagne. Perhaps the Loire? Or maybe Australia’s Geelong? I realized it was time to take a trip and figure this out firsthand.

Chardonnay vines in Old Mission Peninsula

Wait… Michigan makes wine??

So first let’s dispel the idea that Michigan is too cold, or too inland, or too (insert whichever term you’ve heard here) to make excellent wine that can hold its own against the great European wine regions. The wine regions of Michigan span the latitudes of 42N to 45N - think France’s Corsica to Italy’s famous Barolo vineyards. Lake Michigan provides a mitigating factor to keep the cold winds and weather coming from the north from hitting the region’s prized vineyard land (most years, that is).

Michigan’s mild cool climate allows V. vinifera vines to thrive here, but varieties must be carefully chosen: the growing season is significantly shorter than in many European regions, so varieties must be matched carefully to the conditions. For this reason you’ll find the Burgundy grapes, Austrian and German grapes, and some northeastern Italian grapes growing happily on the rolling hills throughout Michigan’s viticultural areas, with some French-American hybrids like Traminette and Vignoles planted in the colder areas.

And by the way, Michigan wine is not a new thing. Vines have been planted here alongside crops like cherries, peaches, and apples since the mid-1900’s. So why have you never heard of Michigan wine? Until now, many of the wines didn’t make it far from their home. Luckily this is now going to change.

Source: Michigan State University Department of Geography

But aren’t the wines all sweet?

Michigan’s unique growing conditions allow these regions to make some fantastic sweet wines, it’s true. However most wines here are dry. Michigan specializes in crisp, vibrant, aromatic white wines and structured red wines with bright acidity and lively fruit aromas.

wine list at 2 Lads in Old Mission Peninsula

What styles of wine can I expect from Northern Michigan?

Northern Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula, while differing slightly in terroir, make a very distinct style of wine.

Dry Riesling has taken center stage for decades here, with good examples easily rivaling German, Alsatian, and Finger Lakes Rieslings. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay also make beautiful, expressive examples here, with the Chardonnay clone 809 (named the Giguiere Musque clone) producing a particularly aromatic, unoaked style.

Red wine grapes include the Austrian Blaufrankish, which here produces stunning wines with spice, dried herbs, and bright red fruits on the nose; Gamay, which is arguably a rising star here; Cabernet Franc, which has long been a staple but may fall out of favor due to ripening issues; and Pinot Noir, which has a devout following, but some naysayers as well due to its difficult nature and thin, skins vulnerable to disease.

Michigan’s growing conditions also make for the perfect sparkling wine terroir. You’ll find traditional method, Champagne-style wines aged on lees for a creamy, complex bubbly, tank method Prosecco-style wines showing off the intense aromatics grapes can achieve here, and easy-drinking, force carbonated bubbles made to enjoy on a sunny day on the deck or with appetizers and friends.

Some producers are venturing into the fascinating world of minimal intervention and natural wines too, producing pet-nats, wine with heavy skin contact, and adventurous styles for those looking for a bit of an edgier wine.

But where can I get ahold of some Michigan wine here?

We’ve made it our mission to increase awareness of regions like these. We are currently working with six producers from Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula. These wines are truly incredible, and will certainly change the mind of any of those who doubt.

A Tale of New Hampshire Wine

“Hey, this wine is actually good!”

Whenever we hear this phrase (and we hear it a lot!), we wish the “actually” would just vanish. Like many underrated wine regions, New Hampshire suffers from tainted consumer (and industry) perception. Yet also like many underrated wine regions, producers in the Granite State are pumping out unique, high quality, terroir-expressive masterpieces that slip by under the radar. We hope to change that and give these wines the spotlight they deserve!

NOK Vino | https://www.nokvino.com/

“But where are the vineyards?”

New Hampshire’s vineyards span the breadth of the south, and run up to the central lakes. Like its neighbor Vermont, much of the center of the state has Hardiness Zones of 5a and 5b, allowing growth of cold-hardy hybrid grapes like Marquette, Frontenac, and LaCrescent. However the growing region in the southeast has a much milder climate, placing it squarely in Zone 6. This allows for growing a wide spectrum of French-American hybrids such as the delightful Aromella, the unique teinturier Chambourcin, and the aromatic Louise Swenson.

NOK Vino | https://www.nokvino.com/vineyards

“Are there producers making serious wine though?”

New Hampshire’s producers come in a few flavors: some ship in juice or grapes from other states for the bulk of their wine; others use a combination of estate-grown grapes (or grapes from New Hampshire growers) and imported grapes; still others have dedicated themselves to estate grown, produced, and bottled wines. The third category is arguably the most interesting.

Producers like Mike Appolo of Appolo Vineyards and Bob Elliott of Blue Heron Wines have been making wine from their estate-grown French-American hybrids in the southeast since the early 2000s. Mike also produces wines from imported grapes; Bob sticks to estate grapes only. Appolo and Blue Heron wines are typically dry, elegant, and beautiful expressions of the milder southeast climate.

A new generation of producers is now trying their hand (quite successfully!) at a different approach to making wine in New Hampshire, sourcing grapes (and other fruit) from Zone 5 vineyard sites that are farmed responsibly and regeneratively. Nico Kimberly of NOK Vino - and the consultant for Shara Vineyards) - trained at Vermont’s iconic La Garagista. He is now putting his phenomenal skills to work and creating incredible grape and grape-apple-pear wines that can easily hold their own in any US market. He sources from vineyards around central New Hampshire, Concord, Walpole, and the Hampton area; he also manages many of these vineyards which are farmed regeneratively. At a recent industry tasting at San Francisco’s The Barrel Room, Nico’s wines were some of the standouts and got a lot of attention from the Bay Area wine folks!

NOK Vino | https://www.nokvino.com/vineyards

So yes, New Hampshire makes wine.

And with the direction climate change is pushing the industry, New Hampshire is poised for a serious growth in production, quality, and presence in the national market. We encourage you to taste them for yourself! Email us if you’d like to discover these fantastic producers and taste their wines.